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Peak Climbing in Nepal

Trekking Peak-the designation trekking peak is an unfortunate misnomer, because most of the peaks are PeakClimingsignificant mountaineering challenges. Few of the trekking peaks are walk ups and some of them technically demanding and dangerous. However the trekking peak climbing requires some technical skill and previous experience. The weather is often bad and may force you to sit in your tent for a day or more. Usually a well-equipped base camp is necessary and the ascent of a peak require one or two high camps that must be established. Most of the peaks require a minimum of two days to climb and can take as long as three weeks. Since 1978 the Nepal Mountaineering Association NMA has had the authority to issue permission for small-scale attempts on 18 peaks. Though it is not necessary to go through a long application process, hire and equip a liaison officer, or organize a huge assault on a major peak in order to try Himalayan Mountaineering. 

. Island Peak 6189m.
This is the most popular trekking peak in Nepal . From Dingboche the mountain is seen as an island in a sea of ice. The summit is interesting and attractive with a highly glaciated west face rising from the Lhotse Glacier. The ridge rising to the south from this point leads to the summit of Island Peak . The extension of this ridge descending south-west is the part of the normal route of ascent and leads to the South Summit . Imja Tse not only provides an enjoyable climb but also provides some of the most spectacular scenery of Himalayas in the Khumbu region. Seen from the summit the giant mountains, Nuptse (7,879m), Lhotse (8,501m), Lhotse Middle Peak (8,410m) and Lhotse Shar (8,383m) make a semi circle in the north. The views of Makalu (8475m) in the east, Baruntse and Amadablam in the south add more charm in climbing Island Peak.

South-East Flank & South-West Ridge:
Normally, the base camp is set at Pareshaya Gyab (5,087m), between Imja Tse and the lateral moraine of the Imja Glacier. Proper care should be taken to avoid the possible avalanche in the event of heavy snow fall.

From the base camp, a well acclimatized party in good conditions can make the summit and return to the base camp in a day. However, most of the climbers prefer alpine style camping at high camp which adds the joy of climbing and helps a safe ascent. From the base camp the route skirts south east around and base of Imja Tse and climbs steep grassy slopes and small rocky steps. We scramble up on open gully which leads between two ridges to the site of high camp on at 5, 280m.

From the high camp, the left hand ridge scramble across the broad open gully. After crossing a gully a steep snow and ice ramp leads upward for nearly 100 meters to the summit ridge. Climbing near the summit is a little difficult due to steep climbing. 

. Mera Peak 6654m. 
Mera peak is considered one of the major and popular trekking peaks in Nepal . The Peak itself rises to the south of Everest. The ascent of the peak is technically straightforward, however, the heavy snow and the maze of crevasses can make the way longer to the summit. Besides the charming of climbing Mera Peak , the trek to its base camp from Lukla is rewarding for experiencing little-visited and yet unspoilt region of Nepal with densely forested hill sides.

There are several approaches to the base camp besides the easy and normal route which is mentioned below. The routes crossing Amphu Labtsa (5,780m) and the Mingbo La (5,871m) are quite adventurous and rewarding for spectacular scenery but none of them are easy.

North Face Glacier from the Mera La:
The base camp can be set up at 5,300m on the Hongu side in the moraine below the ice. Normally, high camp is set at 5,800m near a rocky outcrop on the Mera Glacier. The high camp proves to be one to the spectacular viewpoints in Nepal offering the panoramic views of Kanchanjunga, Chamlang, Makalu and Baruntse sweeping around from the east and Amadablam, Cho Oyu and Kangtega to the west. The giant faces of Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse appear in the north.

There are three main summits which are climbable without much difficulty. The south summit (6,065m) is the most accessible with the Northern Summit (6,476m) , the highest, which can be reached by skirting the Central Summit (6,461m) to the north and following snow ridge to its top.Climbing the middle summit requires ascent up on steep snow and is slightly technical. Mera North is straight-forward to climb. 

. Lobuche Peak 
Lobuche peak is one of the popular trekking peaks in Nepal . The peak is an attractive summit and offers various routes for climbing. The normal route for climbing is through South Ridge. The peak consists of several small summits and the true summit requires climbing steep snow and ice slopes to the top from the summit ridge.

We follow Everest base camp trek route up to Pheriche and then trek to Dughla. The base camp will be set up at 4,950m. near a lake in a rocky hollow at the base of the glaciated South-West Face. The views of Amadablam and Tawache are superb from here. We climb steep stone terraces and snow slopes just below the main glaciers on the South-West Face of Lobuche East. We climb steep snow and ice slopes using fix ropes and get access to the ridge overlooking Lobuche and the Khumbu Glacier where we fix the high camp.

We follow the sharp snow ridge to the summit ridge. Then we follow the route to north-west towards the main summit passing several small snow bumps and reach a notch. Then we further climb steep and quite difficult snow slopes to the true summit. The peak can be climbed from East Face by climbing a dark pyramid of slabby rock and join the South Ridge to get to the summit.
 
. Pachermo Peak 6187m.
Phapchermo peak (6187m/20298ft) was first climbed in 1955. This is a relatively attractive snow peak, which lies due south of Tashi Lapcha. It has a well defined north by north-west ridge rising from the crevassed glacier astride the Tashi Lapcha. To the west of the ridge the face forms a uniform snow slope broken by crevasses and seracs rising from the rocky lower buttresses above the Drolambau glacier.

Access to Phapchermo is mainly through the Rolwaling valley. For most of the 1980's this route was closed due to the potential dangers which could be causes to the porters crossing the Tashi Lapcha. The only other route from the Khumbu side via Namche Bazaar and Thame. Now the Rolwaling valley has once again been opened for trekking. The journey through Rolwaling takes one climbing a peak or two and crossing a high glaciated Pass followed by a descent and a return trek through new country. The trip through the Rolwaling valley is truly considered an exhilarating "mountaineering adventure".

. Pisang Peak 6091m